Smelling good is just as important as looking good. The right cologne or aftershave can add a nice finishing touch to your outfit. I have always taken the view that most contemporary colognes and aftershaves (CK, Hugo etc) are either too strong and tend to smell similar, in essence they are all variations on a similar theme. My preference is for older more traditional lotions and potions that get overlooked these days. They offer such a wide variety of smells, something to suit all occasions.

Before I continue maybe I should explain the differences between different the types of smelly liquids. You’d be surprised just how many men don’t realise that cologne and aftershave are two completely different things.

The Eau De’s

There are three Eau De’s - Cologne, Toilette and Parfum. They serve only an aesthetic purpose and that is to make you smell nice. In order to get the most from them they should be applied to your pulse points, those are places where you can see you veins. These areas of your body are warmer and thus help the scent travel further.

Eau de Cologne

Eau de Cologne (water of Cologne), as its name suggests, originated in Cologne, Germany. The chap who invented it was an Italian named Giovanni Maria Farina. When he concocted his first batch he described was reported to have told his brother “I have found a fragrance that reminds me of an Italian spring morning, of mountain daffodils and orange blossoms after the rain”. Naturally, he named his Italian inspired scent after his new hometown of Cologne, in Germany. Cologne is comprised of 3%-8% scent oils topped up with a mixture of ethanol alcohol and water. The scent will last for about 4-8 hours depending on its potency.

Eau de Toilette

Eau de Toilette is similar to cologne, except that is made with a higher percentage of scent oils, typically 5%-15%. As a result its scent will have a stronger potency than cologne and it will also last longer.

Eau de Parfum

As the name suggests this is perfume. Yes, there are perfumes for men! Parfum contains 10%-20% scent oils. That amount of scent oil will provide quite a kick to the nasal senses. The scent will also last a lot longer maybe more than a day or two for some strong ones. There are very few male perfumes on the market. Due in part to the fact that most males don’t want to wear an overpowering scent. This is a traditional thing due to the fact that men worked in offices all day and didn’t want to wear a scent that overpowered their colleagues/

Now I shall confuse matters. Not all manufacturers label their products correctly. Some will use the term Eau de Toilette when the product is actually an Eau de Cologne and vice versa. Some even use the phrase Pour Homme, which can be either a Eau de Cologne or and Eau de Toilette. To a large extent these terms have become generic and interchangeable. The best was to find out what type of ‘Eau de’ a product is to ask your retailer and do some research. Most people would probably care little about the difference, but if you or someone close to you is sensitive to strong scents it might be handy to know before you purchase a scent strong enough to fell an elephant.

Aftershave

Aftershaves serve as skin conditioner first and as a scent second. They act to disinfect the skin and help stop bleeding from little nicks and cuts, they should also moisturise the skin too. Typically aftershaves contain 1%-5% scent oils and aromatic compounds, along with skin nutrients and conditioners such as aloe and witch-hazel. This mixture is then topped off with dilute alcohol. The quality of aftershaves varies wildly. Cheaper ones will contain fewer scent and skin conditioning ingredients and more alcohol. More expensive ones will contain the opposite. Too much alcohol in an aftershave is not at all pleasant because it will sting after shaving and dry the skin rather than moisturise it. It is better to spend a bit more on a quality aftershave as your face will thank you for it.

Talking of shaving, you really shouldn’t use cologne as an alternative to aftershave for two reasons, it smells too strong and it hurts, a lot! If you spray on a strong cologne in the morning it will quickly overpower you sense of smell, so that you won’t smell it, but everyone around you will end up choking on it. Secondly, due to the high alcohol content colognes will sting like hell if applied to freshly shaved skin without offering any conditioning benefits.

Aftershaves are much better for your work life as they help your skin and don’t smell too strong. Keep the colognes for special occasions and nights out. If you do want to wear your favourite cologne to work try to use it sparingly.

Reccomended Scents

So with the explanations over, please allow me to tell you about some of my favourite traditional aftershaves and colognes that you won’t find in many contemporary stores alongside the modern, trendy colognes from the likes of Hugo Klein, or whatever he’s called.

Most of the products listed are available as colognes or aftershaves.

Trumpers Sandalwood

This wonderfully woody cologne comes from the venerable Geo. F. Trumpers, a 133 year old barbers shop in London. Sandalwood is an Indian tree, whose wood provides the base oil that is used in this scent. The aroma is best described as woody, with definite hints of incense and spice. It is a world away from the unisex colognes that are so popular these days. Great when used as a winter or outdoor cologne as it can be quite overpowering when used indoors.

Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene

Although this cologne was introduced in 1976, a decade not know for good taste, it has proved to be something of an exception by being somewhat restrained for its era and for outlasting the decade in which it was created.

It is a very herbal cologne, not too powerful, with a certain oceanic quality. It is one of the few colognes I would wear to work.

Paco Rabanne Pour Homme

This is a classic Mediterranean cologne. Citrus and spice being the main notes. It is a perfect summer cologne. The sort of thing you would wear to a sunny resort or on a picnic. It is also reasonably priced for a quality product.

Spanish Leather by Truefitt and Hill

This is an old Cologne, invented in 1830, is a firm favourite of mine. Modern it isn’t. It has a very strong leather and musk aroma, with hints of wood and tobacco. This is a very refined cologne that would go well with a tweed jacket.

Jockey Club by Caswell-Massey

Almost as old as Spanish Leather, this a venerable old cologne first sold in 1840 by the American form of Caswell-Massey. This is quite hard to get hold of in Europe, I have only come across one specialist perfumery that sells it in the UK. That said, there is always internet ordering. This cologne is quite mild, with a very distinct floral talc aroma. A cologne that doesn’t last too long and can be worn to work.

Trumpers Extract of Limes

There’s one scent here - lime and lots of it! Good to wear indoors while relaxing or in a summer outfit.

D.R. Harris Classic Cologne

Another classic from one of London’s venerable old stores. This particular cologne comes from D.R. Harris, a 200 year old chemists shop. This cologne has a very distinctive zesty citrus aroma, with hints of musk and herbs. I would wear this on a night out.

If you have any favourite aftershaves of colognes of your own, please feel to mention them in the comments.